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Life in Mainland China

Northeast China

Forest, black soil and long winters, where dumplings come by the plate and the cold is a festival.

Play: Northeast China quiz

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The land

The Northeast, called Dongbei, is a land of forested mountains and rich black soil, crossed by the Songhua and the Liao rivers and bounded by the Amur and the Yalu. It is one of China's great granaries for soybeans, maize and rice, and its industry built much of the country's heavy machinery in the 1950s.

Living there

Winters are long and hard: Harbin's January average is below minus 15°C. People meet the cold head on, with ice sculpture festivals, winter swimming in the frozen river and frozen pears and hawthorn sticks sold in the street.

How it sounds

The Northeastern dialect is close to standard Mandarin, with a warm, emphatic tone that is a staple of comedy sketches on Chinese television. Korean is spoken in Yanbian, along the border, and Russian names and buildings remain in Harbin.

What it eats

Food here comes in big portions: stews from a single pot, pork with pickled cabbage, plates of dumplings, and guobaorou, crisp pork in a sweet and sour glaze. Winter vegetables were once stored in pickling jars and cellars for months.

Liaoning

provinceCapital: Shenyang

The southern gateway to the northeast, with a long coast on the Yellow Sea and the Bohai.

Dumplings

The north and northeastNot spicy

Half-moon dumplings of pork and cabbage, or pork and chives, boiled and dipped in vinegar. In the north the whole family folds them on Lunar New Year's Eve.

Jilin

provinceCapital: Changchun

Forests, rime-frosted trees in winter, and a strong Korean heritage in the east.

Yanbian cold noodles

Yanbian, Jilin

Chewy buckwheat noodles in an icy, tangy beef broth, topped with beef slices, half an egg, cucumber, pear and chilli. A Korean dish, eaten even in winter.

Heilongjiang

provinceCapital: Harbin

China's northernmost province, where winter lasts half the year and the cold is a festival.

Guobaorou

Harbin, HeilongjiangNot spicy

Thin slices of pork fried twice until they are glassy and crisp, then tossed in a sweet and sour sauce with shreds of carrot and coriander. Created in Harbin for Russian guests who liked their food sweet.

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Northeast China quiz

Dishes, famous sights and capitals. Every answer comes with the story behind it.

  1. Which place is famous for this? "Dalian's seafood, eaten by the coast all summer."

    Answer

    Liaoning. Liaoning. The southern gateway to the northeast, with a long coast on the Yellow Sea and the Bohai.

  2. What is the capital of Liaoning?

    Answer

    Shenyang. Shenyang. Liaoning is also known for: the Shenyang Imperial Palace, built by the Qing before they took Beijing.

  3. Which place is famous for this? "Cold noodles in an icy, tangy broth, from the Korean communities of Yanbian."

    Answer

    Jilin. Jilin. Forests, rime-frosted trees in winter, and a strong Korean heritage in the east.

  4. What is the capital of Jilin?

    Answer

    Changchun. Changchun. Jilin is also known for: changbai Mountain and the crater lake on its summit.

  5. Which place is famous for this? "Guobaorou: crisp slices of fried pork in a sweet and sour glaze, created in Harbin."

    Answer

    Heilongjiang. Heilongjiang. China's northernmost province, where winter lasts half the year and the cold is a festival.

  6. What is the capital of Heilongjiang?

    Answer

    Harbin. Harbin. Heilongjiang is also known for: the Harbin Ice and Snow World, a city of buildings carved from river ice.

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